Non c’è dubbio che i "pizzoccheri", le tagliatelle di grano saraceno della Valtellina, siano in sé la migliore pasta da cuocere in Italia , e quindi del mondo, se mi è consentito il sillogismo. Ma il loro primato indiscutibile si ferma alla scatola nella quale sono conservati, secchi, che poi è la loro forma migliore. E sì, perché ci sono non solo due forme di pizzoccheri ( lunghi e corti : meglio tagliati corti se vanno conditi a strati e gratinati), ma anche due tipi diversi. L’industria pastaria fa i pizzoccheri secchi addizionando la farina di saraceno con semola di grano duro , (v. la confezione in scatola di cartone, marca "Moro", secondo noi la migliore), mentre per realizzare i pizzoccheri freschi – da farsi sul momento in casa o nella cucina d’un ristorante – viene usata, ahimé, molta, troppa, farina bianca di grano tenero .
E invece, in entrambi i casi sarebbe preferibile, per non disperdere il potere protettivo in un cereale così ricco di polifenoli antiossidanti e di fibre, l’aggiunta rispettivamente di semola e farina integrale .
Ma i peccati più gravi sono quelli nel condimento in cucina. La ricetta dell’intera food, now codified as the Academy of Pizzocchero Teglio (is given below), it is quite be reviewed in our opinion. It 's too recent, quite illogical, less tasty than it might be, and even unhealthy. This is clearly a modern processing , which has nothing to do with the oldest tradition, as evidenced by the presence of the first potato .
starch added to starch? Perhaps because women did not have enough buckwheat, and the valleys were to "stretch" to fill the dishes? But it was a dish of the feast, that is, poor mountain people? So, the buck had to have a full attic. Even so, otherwise the argument would fall of his adopted homeland of Buckwheat Valtellina in Italy.
An addition, the potato, which is to discuss the students of food history. The buck was known in Italy as early as 1550 (Matthioli), introduced from Central Asia, and probably spread in Valtellina in the Northeast in the late seventeenth century, at least 150 years before the potato and overtaken by 1800 - even the popular works of Alessandro Volta - the stubborn opposition of peasants and mountain folk who thought it wrong to poison, began to spread all over the world to the 800. Unspecified "perzockel" is mentioned in 1797, pizzoccheri and only by 1834 (Massara, Balardini), seasoned only with butter and cheese.
pizzoccheri In support of the tradition of not talking about potatoes added, now the Science is contrary to overuse or regular potatoes as complement-substitute for cereals, especially if whole (just what happens in weird recipe official pizzoccheri).
L ' potato starch, in fact, is not like that of cereals (including buckwheat), and legumes, but is metabolized with the formation of sugar glucose very rapidly and almost completely, more or less like sugar Kitchen (Sucrose). So after lunch stimulates a strong secretion of insulin. Ha, that is, a high glycemic index , in some preparations even higher than that of glucose (index 100). The glycemic index is not a specific criterion, and it changes depending on the food preparation. But the excess potato is put your hands in your hair to therapists and dieticians, in the long run certainly does not help to prevent obesity, diabetes, food, high cholesterol, heart disease, and cancers of the colon and rectum (I remember a specific study where it connects regular use of the potato to a higher statistical incidence of this disease). But what alarmed yet
more, and without waiting for the "long term", are 200 g of butter for 4 people under the official recipe, the more that is added on raw pizzoccheri hot, so it dissolves, but the first goes well cooked and browned. All this is now considered a health hazard.
Poor vegetables. To make matters worse, faced with so much butter and cheese cooked, wonder the very small quantity of cabbage, or other alternative vegetable (beet greens, broccoli, spinach, etc.), provided for in the recipe: a further sign of the typical nutritional ignorance of the twentieth century, When vegetables and potatoes were considered among the vegetables together. While today we know that green vegetables, unlike the starchy tubers, have a high protective power, vitamins and antioxidants. Indeed, the tradition exceeded in vegetables. In any house that did not eat vegetables in soups, side dishes, salads and pies, a feature consistent poverty old, from the ancient Etruscan up to 50 years of '900. Therefore, the avarice of cabbage in the recipe pizzoccheri (just 200g for 4 people, which after cooking is almost nothing, when a part-type would be 250g per person) is highly suspicious of modernity, that is remaking by chefs restaurant or housewives today. Proprio come la scarsità di broccoletti di rapa nelle orecchiette della Puglia, ormai irriconoscibili
Per di più, la tecnica di bollitura tradizionale in acqua abbondante della verdura oggi è considerata sbagliata, perché nell’acqua che poi si getta via con la scolatura, si perdono gran parte dei sali minerali ed altre sostanze. Le verze, perciò, andrebbero in teoria cotte a parte , come si faceva anticamente per quelle abbinate agli gnocchi (G. Bianchini), oggi in tempi salutistici al vapore e in pentola a pressione (che conserva al massimo i nutrienti e perfino gran parte dei preziosi glucosinolati anti-cancro typical cabbages and turnips ), then cut and added at the last minute in the bowl, alternating layers of cheese and pizzoccheri. But the ancient people of the valley could not find out what the nutritionists of today.
More serious errors of modern cooks and housewives, who were able to normalize, trivialize , ruin a dish that was born of his own strong and healthy enough to make it heavier and not only damaging, but also much less tasty In the past, making pizzoccheri resemble a plate of pasta like so many today.
change the recipe. Therefore, it is time to update the current recipe, which probably are very recent, post World War II, is that for pizzoccheri fresh home-made, is that - slightly more sense - suggestions on box of dried pasta pizzoccheri (brand name "Moro"). We try to enjoy the best of pizzoccheri sensory and protective ability of buckwheat , as is logical to assume that you did at the time of importation of the Saracen in Italy, where the potato was not known even to be, and vegetables reigned supreme in all the kitchens of Italy and Europe. Not to mention the
herbs , all gone. Yet they were certainly abundant at the time, and sunny coasts of the Valtellina are definitely mountain savory, thyme, wild thyme and other herbs. The sage, mentioning that other versions, the recipe has disappeared "official."
highlighting pizzoccheri . With their distinctive flavor dark, earthy, vaguely reminiscent of the cocoa polyphenols because of some common, pizzoccheri are inherently richer than the pasta taste? Well, then let's put it out. One can understand that the production of the Valtellina buckwheat is low, but this should not be an excuse to turn a plate of salad pizzoccheri in Russian where the buck is in the minority, and all the taste, as in the trivial and harmful pasta refined wheat, comes from the sauce or dressing heavy. So to juxtapose well pizzoccheri much cabbage, cooked separately in a non-destructive, and with condiamoli extra virgin olive oil, herbs suitable crumbled on the spot in a porcelain dish, such as savory, thyme etc.. So the recipe is more healthy.
If you really like the taste of creamy butter (but not enough cheese?) Just add some butter, absolutely raw , and give him time to melt in hot pizzoccheri.
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All ways to enjoy the Saracen . A delicious cereal, also valuable in cost, which should be consumed much more in at least four forms, not counting the ancient tradition of Lombard sciatt:
1. soup beans whole Buckwheat: gentle and pleasing nutty flavor.
2. Polenta taragna only buckwheat flour: it will thicken immediately on a platter. In comparison, the best of whole corn polenta appears banal and insipid flavor.
3. flour crepes, which can also be prepared without eggs, thanks to strong agglutinating power of the Saracen. Delicious with nuts and honey, or cheese fudge pasture or gorgonzola.
4. Pizzoccheri , short strips of pasta (made fresh in house, or rather dry fortified with wheat). In the latter case longish cooking and more lasting enjoyment.
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nutritional and preventive properties of buckwheat . A article Blog cousin "Natural Power" contains a summary of scientific studies on nutritional value and highly protective the buck.
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Pizzoccheri here is the recipe for modern challenged
Ingredients (serves 4): 400 g
buckwheat
100 g white flour 200 g butter 250 g of cheese
Valtellina Casera DOP
150 g of grated parmesan cheese
200 g 250 g potatoes, cabbage
a clove of garlic, pepper
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Mix the two flours, mix with water and work for about 5 minutes. With a rolling pin, roll the dough to a thickness of 2-3 mm which are derived from the age of 7-8 centimeters. Overlap the strips and cut across the width, yielding about 5 mm wide noodles. Cook the vegetables
in salt water, the cabbage into small pieces and potatoes into cubes, combine the pizzoccheri after 5 minutes (the potatoes are always present, while the cabbage may be substituted, depending on the seasons, with coast or green beans).
After about ten minutes to collect pizzocheri with a slotted spoon and pour some in a very hot pan, sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese and Valtellina Casera DOP flakes, and continue alternating pizzoccheri cheese.
Fry the garlic butter to leave those well before pouring on pizzoccheri. Without stirring pizzoccheri serve hot with a sprinkle of pepper.
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Pizzoccheri here is the recipe healthy and tasty
Ingredients for 4 servings: 500 g
pizzoccheri
just over 60 g (4-5 tablespoons) of olive oil, preferably new mill.
300 g of good melting cheese seasoned and tasty. Not the fontina, Taleggio cheese, if anything. If you really are desperate, two-thirds of caciotta and a third great spicy gorgonzola.
600 g of cabbage (or kale, chard, turnips, broccoli di rape, etc.). The flavors are fine sulfur.
1-2 cloves garlic, crushed
herbs (thyme, wild thyme, savory, oregano, etc.)
black pepper
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Use pizzoccheri dried (p.es, the brand "Moro" located all over Italy), or - if you live in or Trentino Valtellina, where there is easy and affordable buckwheat flour - prepared fresh at home as in the official recipe, but replacing the white flour with whole wheat flour.
Boil in salted water just pizzoccheri dry for about 15 minutes of cooking. Meanwhile
be steamed in a pressure cooker and the cabbage, cut into small pieces and season with salt. Slice the cheese into slivers. With the squeeze-squeeze garlic 1-2 cloves garlic 4-5 tablespoons in a cup of oil and mix with a fork. Pour into abundant herb sauce very well crumble instantly and pepper, mixing.
pizzoccheri Drain, mix with a wooden spoon, quickly but gently in a large bowl with cabbage and aromatic sauce. Pour immediately pizzoccheri seasoned cabbage, still hot, hot in a ceramic serving dish, layer by layer. On each layer sprinkle the slices of cheese and then cover with another layer of seasoned pizzoccheri. Reserve the last part of aromatic sauce to pour over. E 'can also be baked au gratin.
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